Streets of
New Orleans

Essential New OrleansA Visitor's Guide

Discover New Orleans through its history, culture, and cuisine.

By Charles Joseph •Published April 28th, 2024
Bienvenue

New Orleans is a city bursting with life – from its distinctive cuisine to its legendary music; it's got a 'lil something for everyone.

Known for its historic French Quarter, Mardi Gras festivities, and soulful jazz, the city offers old-world charm and unforgettable experiences that will resonate long after you visit.

So, as they say in New Orleans, laissez le bon temps rouler – or, let the good times roll.

This guide aims to help you navigate the distinct character of New Orleans by providing essential information that might otherwise be overlooked. As a longtime resident, I'm sharing only information that I think would be helpful for newcomers.

Chapter One

Quick History

Let's start with a brief history.

The Founding of New Orleans
  1. 1718
    Founded by France
  2. 1763
    Ceded to Spain
  3. 1800
    Returned to France
  4. 1803
    Sold to the United States for $15 million

The Founding of New Orleans

New Orleans was established by the French in 1718 (by Jean Baptiste Le Moyne de Bienville) and remained under French control until 1763.

When New Orleans was founded, Louis XV, who was only eight years old at the time, was the king of France. This meant that actual governance was in the hands of his regent, Philippe II, Duke of Orléans.

The Duke was a prominent member of the House of Bourbon, a major royal family that significantly shaped French and European history.

In recognition of the Duke's influence and to honor him, New Orleans was named after him. This connection also extends to the famous Bourbon Street, which echoes the legacy of the Bourbon family in the city's French colonial heritage.

Dukes of Orléans
Coat of Arms, Dukes of Orléans

French Loss of Louisiana

In 1763, after France was defeated by Great Britain and its allies in the Seven Years' War (1756-1763), a significant part of which included the North American theater known as the French and Indian War, France had to give up several territories.

As part of the peace negotiations, France ceded New Orleans and the rest of Louisiana to Spain.

This transfer was a strategic move: since Spain had entered the war as a late ally of France and lost its own territory of Florida to Britain, France compensated Spain by giving them Louisiana. This helped France maintain its alliance with Spain against Britain.

Spain Returns Louisiana to France

The city stayed under Spanish rule until 1800, when Spain secretly agreed to return New Orleans to France through the Treaty of San Ildefonso, hoping to gain favor with the French government. This transfer was kept a secret until it was publicly disclosed in 1802.

This period of Spanish rule, combined with its foundational French heritage, is why New Orleans boasts a rich blend of both Spanish and French influences, evident in its architecture, cuisine, and cultural traditions.

However, France's control over New Orleans was short-lived.

France Sells Louisiana to the United States

In 1803, Napoleon Bonaparte, then the leader of France, sold Louisiana for $15 million ($415 million in 2024) – which included New Orleans – to the United States in what is known as the Louisiana Purchase.

Map of the Louisiana Purchase
Louisiana Purchase in 1803
(source: Library of Congress/ McConnel Map Co.; hosted @ kajabi-cdn.com)
Chapter Two

How Governance Impacted Culture in New Orleans

New Orleans was once a city divided into 17 political partitions, or wards, each of which was further divided into precincts. Each ward elected an alderman who represented the interests of that specific area on the city council.

I mention these seemingly mundane facts because these old administrative divisions continue to play a role in the city's modern's character.

How?

Well, many residents (still, today) identify by ward, reflecting a deep connection to their specific area of the city. Each ward has its own unique character and cultural significance, embodying a strong sense of community and local pride.

If you spend time in the city, you'll almost certainly hear this word "ward" – so, now you'll know what it means and how it's connected to New Orleans.

The 17 wards of New Orleans
The 17 wards of New Orleans
(source: newtralgroundz.com)

New Orleans transitioned from wards to districts in the early-20th century – to be specific, 1912 was the last election based on wards.

This shift provided better representation by dividing the city into more equally populated sections.

Today, New Orleans is governed by a mayor and a city council comprising seven members.

Five of these council members represent specific council districts, while two are elected at large.

The districts are designated as follows:

  • A
    District A
    Claiborne
  • B
    District B
    Uptown
  • C
    District C
    West Bank
  • D
    District D
    Gentilly
  • E
    District E
    Chef Menteur
The 5 districts of New Orleans
The 5 districts of New Orleans
(source: New Orleans City Council; hosted @ townnews.com)
Chapter Three

Neighborhoods of New Orleans

New Orleans neighborhoods
The 73 official city neighborhoods of New Orleans
(source: Etsy)

Most Popular Neighborhoods

French Quarter

Ward 1District C

The historic heart of New Orleans, known for its vibrant nightlife and colonial architecture.

Origin

Named for the French who originally settled and developed it.

Garden District

Ward 2District B

Famous for its well-preserved antebellum mansions and lush gardens, established in the 1830s.

Origin

Named for the luxurious gardens found in its large estates.

Marigny

Ward 3District C

Known for its bohemian atmosphere and live music scenes, laid out in the early 19th century.

Origin

Named after Bernard Marigny, a notable local developer.

Treme

Ward 4District C

One of the oldest African American neighborhoods in the U.S., famous for its musical heritage.

Origin

Named after Claude Tremé, who owned the land in the 18th century.

Bywater

Ward 7District C

A vibrant arts community along the Mississippi River, known for its quirky vibe.

Origin

Named for its location by the water of the Mississippi River.

Algiers

Ward 15District C

Known for its historic sites and ferry service across the Mississippi, established in 1719.

Origin

Named after Algiers, a city on the opposite side of the Mediterranean from France.

Uptown

Wards 10, 11, 13District A

Characterized by historic homes, trendy shops, and St. Charles Avenue, developed in the 1800s.

Origin

Named for its location 'up' the Mississippi River from the older parts of the city.

Mid-City

Ward 4District B

Known for its diverse communities and as the site of the New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival.

Origin

Named for its central location in the heart of New Orleans.

Lower Ninth Ward

Ward 9District E

Heavily impacted by Hurricane Katrina, known for its resilience and community spirit.

Origin

Named for its position as the downriver end of the Ninth Ward.

CBD/Downtown

Wards 1, 2District B

The business hub of the city, featuring high-rises and professional services.

Origin

Short for Central Business District, describing its function.

Arts District

Wards 1, 2District B

Known for contemporary art galleries and vibrant arts scene, revitalized in the late 20th century.

Origin

Named for its concentration of arts institutions and galleries.

Carrollton

Ward 11District A

Originally a separate town, known for its oak-lined streets and laid-back atmosphere.

Origin

Named after William Carroll, who was governor of Louisiana.

Lakeview

Ward 5District A

Residential area rebuilt after Hurricane Katrina, known for its proximity to Lake Pontchartrain.

Origin

Named for its views and access to Lake Pontchartrain.

Gentilly

Wards 3, 7District D

A diverse residential neighborhood, known for its jazz clubs and middle-class character.

Origin

Possibly from the French 'gentil,' meaning gentle or noble, reflecting its laid-back character.

New Orleans East

Wards 7, 8, 9District E

A large area known for suburban-style living and newer developments, developed in the 1960s.

Origin

Named for its geographic location in the eastern part of the city.

Upper Ninth Ward

Ward 9District C

Known for its cultural diversity and historical industrial activities.

Origin

Named for its position as the upriver portion of the Ninth Ward.

Esplanade Ridge

Ward 4District D

Known for historic homes along Esplanade Avenue, with a rich cultural and architectural history.

Origin

Named after Esplanade Avenue, which runs through it.

Lower Garden District

Ward 2District B

Similar charm to the Garden District but with a more eclectic and accessible vibe.

Origin

Named for being geographically lower than the Garden District.

Irish Channel

Wards 10, 11District B

Historically Irish immigrant community, now known for its small homes and lively pubs.

Origin

Named for the large number of Irish immigrants who settled there in the 19th century.

Warehouse District

Wards 1, 2District B

Renowned for its converted warehouses now housing restaurants, shops, and lofts.

Origin

Named for its original use as an industrial and warehouse area.

Broadmoor

Ward 4District B

Known for its raised bungalow homes and community-led revitalization post-Katrina.

Origin

Possibly named for its wide, 'broad' avenues.

Lake Terrace and Lake Oaks

Ward 5District D

Known for upscale homes and proximity to universities and cultural institutions.

Origin

Named for its location near Lake Pontchartrain and surrounded by oak trees.

Bayou St. John

Ward 4District A

Known for its namesake waterway and historic, scenic beauty.

Origin

Named after the bayou that runs through it, which was named for Saint John.

Lower Garden District

Ward 2District B

Similar charm to the Garden District but with a more eclectic and accessible vibe.

Origin

Named for being geographically lower than the Garden District.

Interlude

New Orleans Accents

Y'at, Uptown, Creole – hear how the city actually sounds.

Talk Like a Local

A few words and phrases you're almost guaranteed to hear – and what they actually mean.

Lagniappe(LAN-yap)
A little something extra, thrown in for free — like a thirteenth beignet in your dozen.
Y'all(yawl)
You all — the plural of “you,” used constantly.
Where y'at?(ware-YAT)
“How are you doing?” The greeting that gave the classic local accent its nickname: Yat.
Who dat?(hoo-DAT)
The Saints fans' rallying cry: “Who dat say dey gonna beat dem Saints?”
Laissez les bons temps rouler(lay-ZAY lay bohn tahn roo-LAY)
“Let the good times roll” — the city's unofficial motto.
Neutral ground
The grassy median of a boulevard — and prime real estate for watching a parade.
Making groceries
Going grocery shopping, from the French “faire le marché.”
Dressed
How you order a po-boy with lettuce, tomato, pickles, and mayo: “dressed.”
Krewe(crew)
A club that puts on a Mardi Gras parade or ball.
Throw me somethin', mister!
What you shout at a passing float if you want beads and doubloons.
Sno-ball
Fluffy shaved ice drenched in syrup — and don't call it a snow cone.
Cher(sha)
A term of endearment: dear, sweetheart.
Chapter Four

Interesting Facts About New Orleans

Originated in New Orleans

  • Jazz Music

    Birthplace of jazz, a genre that started in the late 19th and early 20th centuries from the city's diverse musical culture.

  • Sazerac

    Often considered the oldest known American cocktail, originated in New Orleans in the 1800s.

Iconic Food

  • Gumbo

    A famous dish that combines French, Spanish, West African, and Native American influences.

  • Po-boy

    A traditional sandwich typically filled with roast beef or fried seafood.

Cultural Significance

  • Mardi Gras

    Hosts one of the world's most famous Mardi Gras celebrations with elaborate parades and masquerade balls.

Architectural Style

  • French Quarter

    Known for its historic buildings with balconies adorned with intricate ironwork, and streets lined with bars and restaurants, showcasing the city's French and Spanish heritage.

Historical Figures Linked to New Orleans

  • Louis Armstrong

    Legendary jazz musician known for his profound impact on the jazz genre.

  • Anne Rice

    Author best known for her series of novels, 'The Vampire Chronicles'.

  • Jean Lafitte

    Famously known for his alliance with General Andrew Jackson during the Battle of New Orleans in 1815, where his pirate crew was instrumental in securing a crucial victory against the British in the War of 1812.

Celebrities Born in the Greater New Orleans Region

  • Lil Wayne

    Influential rapper, singer, and songwriter, known for his successful music career.

  • Ellen DeGeneres

    Comedian, television host, actress, and writer who gained fame with her sitcom 'Ellen' and later the talk show 'The Ellen DeGeneres Show'.

  • Harry Connick Jr.

    Singer, pianist, and actor, well known for his jazz and pop performances.

  • Peyton Manning

    Renowned NFL quarterback who spent the majority of his career with the Indianapolis Colts and Denver Broncos.

  • Tyler Perry

    Filmmaker, playwright, and actor known for creating and portraying the character Madea.

  • Branford Marsalis

    Saxophonist, composer, and bandleader, part of the Marsalis family of jazz musicians.

  • Trombone Shorty

    Musician and producer known for his work in jazz, funk, and rap music.

Chapter Five

When to Go to New Orleans

Popular City Events, January through December

°F°C
Temperatures shown with each event are the monthly average high / low in fahrenheit – click the toggle to change scale
January
Celebration in the Oaks is still running in January – it spans Nov – Jan; see November for details.
February

Mardi Gras

mardigrasneworleans.com
February or early March (47 days before Easter; date varies by year)Spans Feb – Mar
Feb,
: 65/46
Mar,
: 72/53

The city's famous Carnival season culminates on Fat Tuesday with parades, masquerade balls, and street parties.

March

Tennessee Williams Literary Festival

tennesseewilliams.net
Late March
Mar,
: 72/53

Tennessee Williams, renowned for his play "A Streetcar Named Desire," considered New Orleans his "spiritual home" and used it as the backdrop for many of his works. The annual Tennessee Williams Literary Festival in New Orleans celebrates this deep connection by featuring readings, workshops, and the distinctive "Stella" shouting contest.

Mardi Gras is still running in March – it spans Feb – Mar; see February for details.
April

French Quarter Festival

frenchquarterfest.org
April
Apr,
: 78/60

A large free outdoor event celebrating New Orleans' unique heritage and culture with music, food, and special events throughout the French Quarter.

New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival (Jazz Fest)

nojazzfest.com
Late April to early MaySpans Apr – May
Apr,
: 78/60
May,
: 85/68

Celebrates the indigenous music and culture of New Orleans and Louisiana.

May

Bayou Boogaloo

thebayouboogaloo.com
May
May,
: 85/68

A community music festival on the banks of Bayou St. John, featuring local music, food vendors, and artisans. Since it's inception in 2006, the event draws approximately 35,000 people.

New Orleans Wine & Food Experience

nowfe.com
Late May
May,
: 85/68

Showcases local food and international wines, featuring tastings, dinners, and competitions.

New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival (Jazz Fest) is still running in May – it spans Apr – May; see April for details.
June

Oyster Festival

nolaoysterfest.org
Early June
Jun,
: 89/74

Celebrates the local delicacy with contests, live music, and lots of oyster dishes.

Creole Tomato Festival

frenchmarket.org/creoletomatofest
Early June
Jun,
: 89/74

Celebrates Louisiana's Creole tomato at the French Market with food, music, and activities.

July

Essence Music Festival

facebook.com/essencefest
Around July 4th weekend
Jul,
: 91/76

Features major R&B, jazz, gospel, hip-hop, and blues acts, along with seminars on various topics.

Running of the Bulls in New Orleans

nolabulls.com
July
Jul,
: 91/76

A local twist on Pamplona's event, featuring roller derby athletes as bulls.

August

Satchmo SummerFest

satchmosummerfest.org
Early August
Aug,
: 91/75

Dedicated to the life, legacy, and music of Louis 'Satchmo' Armstrong.

September

Southern Decadence

southerndecadence.net
Labor Day weekend in September
Sep,
: 87/72

Known as 'Gay Mardi Gras,' it features parades, street parties, and costume contests.

October

New Orleans Film Festival

neworleansfilmsociety.org/festival
Mid-October
Oct,
: 80/62

Showcases a diverse range of films and has become a premier event in the independent film community.

Voodoo Music + Arts Experience

Late October
Oct,
: 80/62

A multi-day music and arts festival featuring national and international artists.

Halloween in New Orleans

October
Oct,
: 80/62

The city celebrates with haunted houses, costume balls, and parades, notably in the French Quarter.

November

Celebration in the Oaks

celebrationintheoaks.com
Late November to early JanuarySpans Nov – Jan
Nov,
: 72/53
Dec,
: 64/46
Jan,
: 62/43

A festive holiday lights display in City Park, featuring thousands of colorful lights and illuminated outdoor displays.

December
Celebration in the Oaks is still running in December – it spans Nov – Jan; see November for details.
Chapter Six

Mardi Gras

Mardi Gras, or Fat Tuesday, is the climax of the Carnival season which starts on Epiphany (January 6th) and ends the day before Ash Wednesday. This period, deeply rooted in Christian traditions, involves festivities such as parades, masquerades, and balls, and ends with a day of indulgence in food and celebration before the solemn Lenten season of fasting and penance begins.

Originally a part of ancient Roman pagan rites, Mardi Gras was assimilated into the Christian calendar as a prelude to Lent, blending local pagan customs with Christian practices. The name "Mardi Gras" means "Fat Tuesday" in French, highlighting the tradition of eating rich, fatty foods before the Lenten fasting period.

The festival is most famously observed in New Orleans, where it was introduced by French colonizers in the late 17th century. Over the centuries, it has evolved into a grand event featuring street parties, elaborate floats, and masked balls. Mardi Gras in New Orleans is not only a major cultural festivity but also a significant tourist attraction, marked by vibrant parades organized by various "krewes," each adding unique themes and traditions to the celebration.

Today, while Mardi Gras has become a significant cultural event in various parts of the world, including Brazil and Italy, it retains its original blend of European medieval festivity and religious observance, symbolizing the end of winter and the forthcoming period of spiritual reflection leading up to Easter.

Most Popular Mardi Gras Krewes

Rex

Mardi Gras Day
Uptown New Orleans

Founded in 1872, Rex is known as the 'King of Carnival' and is responsible for selecting the official Mardi Gras colors and the theme of the parade each year.

Zulu

Mardi Gras Day
Uptown to Central Business District

Established in 1909, Zulu is famous for its unique and highly sought-after coconut throws and is one of the most anticipated parades, known for its rich African American heritage.

Orpheus

Lundi Gras (Monday before Mardi Gras)
Uptown to the French Quarter

Founded by Harry Connick Jr. in 1993, Orpheus is known for its musical heritage and impressive floats like the Smokey Mary.

Bacchus

Sunday before Mardi Gras
Uptown New Orleans

Bacchus, started in 1968, revolutionized Carnival with its celebrity kings and large, animated super floats, making it a highlight of the season.

Endymion

Saturday before Mardi Gras
Mid-City

Founded in 1967, Endymion is one of the super krewes known for its spectacular floats and celebrity grand marshals, culminating in a massive Extravaganza in the Superdome.

Muses

Thursday before Mardi Gras
Uptown New Orleans

Started in 2000, Muses is an all-female krewe famous for their hand-decorated shoes and strong community involvement.

Chapter Seven · Eat & Drink

Popular Restaurants in New Orleans

If you're short on time, or just want a popular, tried and true eatery, you can't go wrong with any of the ones appearing below.

Jacques-Imo'sphoto: democratictravelers.com

Jacques-Imo's

Renowned for its quirky and eclectic vibe, famously requiring patrons to walk through the kitchen to reach the dining area—a unique feature that offers a sneak peek into the culinary action and adds to the restaurant's intimate and funky charm.

What to Order
  • Crawfish Étouffée
  • Grouper with Shrimp and Asparagus
  • Buttered Parsley Cornbread
  • Shrimp and Alligator Cheesecake
  • Blackened Redfish with Maque Choux
  • Crème Brûlée
  • Garlic Butter Cornbread

Verti Marte

Verti Marte is a bustling convenience store tucked away in the residential area of the New Orleans French Quarter, doubling as a deli known for its legendary sandwiches like the "All That Jazz." Unique for its narrow aisles packed with an eclectic mix of grocery and snack items, the store offers no seating but serves up unforgettable culinary delights 24/7, making it a must-visit for hearty, local flavors.

What to Order
  • Muffuletta
  • Fried Shrimp Po-boy
  • All That Jazz Sandwich
  • Ernie's Power House Sandwich
  • Spinach Surprise
  • Bread Pudding

Domilise's Po-Boy & Bar

Domilise's Po-Boys & Bar, nestled in a modest residential neighborhood of New Orleans, is a beloved local treasure famed for its authentic and delectable Po-boys, particularly the shrimp and half-and-half seafood varieties. This no-frills joint, frequently featured on food networks and cherished for its old-school charm, offers a quintessential New Orleans dining experience with its fresh, crispy French bread and perfectly seasoned fried seafood.

What to Order
  • Shrimp Po-boy
  • Half & Half Seafood Sandwich
  • Spiral Cut Fries
  • Shrimp / Fresh Catfish Sandwich

Emeril's

Emeril's in New Orleans stands out for its personal touch and local flair, offering an intimate peek into the culinary process with its open kitchen design. This establishment is celebrated for not only its high-quality Southern-inspired dishes but also for a service style that's warm and genuinely welcoming, making each visit feel like a special occasion.

What to Order
  • Chicken Tchoupitoulas
  • Classic Tasting Menu
  • Red Snapper Ceviche
  • Skin-on Snapper Fillet
  • Banana Cream Pie
  • Vieux Carre Cocktail
  • Amuse Bouches
  • Seasonal Tasting Menu

Antoine's Restaurant

Antoine's Restaurant in New Orleans, established in 1840, is the oldest family-run restaurant in the United States, renowned for inventing the famous Oysters Rockefeller. The restaurant boasts a rich history and offers a classic French Creole dining experience in its numerous uniquely themed dining rooms.

What to Order
  • Classic Benedict
  • Blueberry Jubilee Blintz
  • Oysters Rockefeller
  • Charbroiled Oysters
  • Soufflé Potatoes
  • Antonio's Burger
  • Shrimp & Grits
  • Pompano Pontchartrain

Parkway Bakery & Tavern

Parkway Bakery & Tavern is a beloved New Orleans staple, celebrated for crafting arguably the best po-boys in the city with fresh, local ingredients and traditional techniques. The tavern not only charms with its delicious sandwiches but also impresses with an efficient service model that keeps even the longest lines moving quickly.

What to Order
  • Fried Shrimp and Catfish Po-boy
  • Surf and Turf Po-boy
  • Chicken and Sausage Jambalaya
  • James Brown Po-boy
  • Shrimp Po-boy

Elizabeth's Restaurant

Elizabeth's Restaurant in New Orleans stands out with its laid-back ambiance and eclectic decor that encapsulates the vibrant Bywater neighborhood's spirit. Unique to Elizabeth's is their inventive menu, which features local delights like praline bacon and fried callas, a traditional New Orleans treat, alongside creative offerings like the French toast burrito.

What to Order
  • Bloody Mary
  • Praline Bacon
  • French Toast Burrito
  • Fried Chicken Livers with Pepper Jelly
  • Eggs Elizabeth
  • Fried Green Tomatoes with Remoulade
  • Shrimp and Grits
  • Gumbo
  • Poached Egg Dishes
  • Fried Callas

Willie Mae's Scotch House

Willie Mae's Scotch House in New Orleans is a modest yet iconic eatery nestled in a residential area, surprising first-time visitors with its unassuming location. Known for its award-winning fried chicken, the restaurant is a culinary landmark that carries the charm of a homey, welcoming atmosphere, often marked by long lines of eager diners.

What to Order
  • Fried Chicken
  • Cornbread Muffins
  • Red Beans and Rice
  • Sweet Potato Fries
  • Mac and Cheese
  • Fried Okra
  • Fried Catfish
  • Fried Shrimp Platter

Killer Po-Boys

Renowned for its inventive take on the classic po-boy sandwich, infusing traditional recipes with modern and global flavors. This eatery is celebrated for its unique offerings like seared shrimp and pork belly po-boys, making it a must-visit for both locals and tourists seeking a taste of contemporary Creole cuisine.

What to Order
  • Ham and Cheese Po-boy
  • Seared Gulf Shrimp Po-boy
  • Thai BBQ Tofu Po-boy
  • Pork Belly Po-boy

Jack Dempsey's Restaurant

A beloved local eatery famed for its generous portions of classic seafood dishes, especially their signature fried seafood platters and stuffed bell peppers. This rustic spot offers a cozy, family-friendly atmosphere that captures the essence of New Orleans' culinary traditions.

What to Order
  • Seafood Platter for 2
  • Crab Balls
  • Crawfish Pies

Bennachin

Renowned for its authentic West African cuisine, offering a unique taste of dishes like Jollof Rice and Yassa Chicken amidst the city's more traditional Cajun and Creole offerings. This cozy spot in the French Quarter draws locals and tourists alike with its hearty vegetarian options and a warm, inviting atmosphere.

What to Order
  • Bennachin
  • Black Eyed Peas with Tomato Stew and Coconut Rice
  • Black Eyed Pea Fritters
  • Jollof Rice
  • Yassa Chicken

Café Beignet

Cafe Beignet on Royal Street in New Orleans provides a charming French Quarter ambiance with live music and cozy courtyard seating. Renowned for its superior beignets and diverse café drinks, it's a favorite for locals and tourists alike.

What to Order
  • Fresh Handmade Beignets (3 Per Order)
  • Pecan Pie
  • Mimosa
  • Cafe au Lait

All the Above Restaurants on a Map